Based on the breathless media coverage of any and all things associated with tea and Washington, D.C., this is a summer of populism in America, prone to angry rants -- real, imagined or otherwise.

Well, Munch took a trip to D.C. this summer, drinks unsweetened iced tea like a fiend, works in media and is real, imagined and otherwise, so here's my angry populist rant for the summer: Downtown still doesn't have enough classy but affordable joints for us workin' stiffs.

You want cheap and crappy? You can stuff your face full of fast food in the Golden Triangle. You want a filet the size of a softball to gnaw on while you count your dividends? Plenty of premium places for that, too. But nice, inexpensive nip-and-a-nosh-after-work places remain few and far between.

Tavern 245 is at 245 Fourth Ave., Downtown. Call 412-281-4345 or visit tavern245.com for more information.

So Munch happily checked out Tavern 245 on Fourth Ave. Munch's beer-drinking buddy, Bob Batz, stopped in last month for a Food section feature. We'd both been keeping track of the place ever since we saw the huge, old-timey yellow neon marquee go up.

Munch stopped for a pop once with regular pal, Blonde Barkeep Bud of Munch, in the cozy downstairs bar, which has a kitschy, 1950s Goodfellas speakeasy feel, like the game room of a pinky ring-wearing uncle that made extra scheckels on the ponies and point spreads. It's a fun little place to enjoy the excellent local hooch Tavern 245 carries, like East End Big Hop IPA ($5.75) or a snifter of Boyd & Blair vodka ($7) on ice.

Mr. Batz nailed the description of the dining room in his piece as "an expansive, airy space with a funky greenish concrete floor and mod windows opening to the street and that giant sign." And Munch finally got to try the menu, which is small but good, and dovetails with Munch's earlier rant about cost: Nothing is more than $12.

That menu includes small plates of soft tacos ($9), a smoked chipotle hummus ($7), a house-made guacamole ($8) and some promising sandwiches -- the Caprese Chicken ($10), served open-face on ciabatta, with fresh mozzarella, tomato, basil and a balsamic reduction; the T-BLT ($8), a roasted turkey and bacon wrap in a whole wheat tortilla with fresh avacado and chipotle mayo; and "The Farm," ($12), comprised of three sliders: filet, red pepper and goat cheese; pulled pork, fried onions and house-made BBQ sauce; and grilled chicken, bacon and cheese.

Salads include the Baby's Bibb ($8), bib greens, bleu cheese crumbles marinated in a shallot vinagrette, topped with candied pecans and a drizzled cherry reduction; and the Strawberry Fields Forever ($8), field greens tossed with balsamic, fresh strawberries, toasted walnuts and a Pennsylvania goat cheese.

Munch started with the soup du jour -- pulled pork and brown rice ($4). A creamy soup, its beige and gelatinous appearance couldn't have been more unappetizing, but it was quite good. A nice, hearty mix of flavors.

Munch enjoyed the Tavern Hamburgesa ($9), which is slathered with that excellent house-made guacamole, chipotle mayo and Colby jack cheese, and house-made pico de gallo on the side, although all those sauces did make it kind of a mess to eat. The side of house-made potato chips was a terrific compliment.

The best part of the evening -- as promised by helpful barkeep Marissa -- was dessert. A strawberry shortcake ($7) made from scratch on site. The strawberries were fresh, with a nice mix of sweet and tart, the pastry had tasty cookie consistency and the freshly whipped cream topped it off well.

To keep score: dining solo, Munch had a beer, appetizer, entree and dessert for $26, in a classy, comfortable setting. Just what this economy ordered.

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