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Dine: These bars give a cut above the usual happy-hour fare
Thursday, August 12, 2010

I'm usually ambivalent about happy hour. There's nothing wrong with discounted drinks, but they usually lead to a bar packed with people drinking whatever's cheapest rather than what they like -- not my kind of bargain.

Happily, there are a number of local exceptions, especially at restaurant bars that offer discounts on food or interesting bar menus along with cut-price drinks that are a notch above the usual mainstream domestics. These establishments see happy hour as a way to get new patrons in the door who might return for dinner, rather than as just an opportunity to make easy money on products they can afford to sell cheap.

Tamari

Happy hour 4-6 p.m. Monday-Friday. 3519 Butler St., Lawrenceville; www.tamaripgh.com, 412-325-3435.

While I miss the $1 ceviche that used to be on Tamari's happy-hour menu, the new options are also impressive. Tamari offers half-off drafts and bottles of beer (except premium bottles, such as the Unibroue La Fin Du Monde and Chimay Grand Reserve). There's also pleasantly tart sangria ($4) and the sweet but well-balanced tamari-tini, ($5) made with plum wine, vodka, triple sec and fresh lime juice. Glasses of house wine are $6. Special kudos to Tamari for putting a happy-hour menu on every table. There's nothing more awkward than having to ask whether there are any specials.

Deals also include six appetizers for $6. The grilled romaine salad was robust and crunchy, topped with strands of cucumber. Follow that up with the Peking duck quesadilla and you have a delicious inexpensive dinner.

The robata grill combination platter included skewers of chicken, salmon, zucchini, eggplant and bacon-wrapped quail eggs and is perfect for nibbling along with a drink.

Our server was attentive and friendly and didn't bat an eye when we stuck mostly to happy-hour options. The deals were great, but after getting a look at its new menu options such as seared scallops with avocado ceviche and tomato pan jus ($12) and red miso fideo with scallop, calamari, mussels, king trumpet mushroom and crostini ($18), as well as a new tasting menu option Monday through Thursday, I can't wait to go back for dinner.

Pangea

5-7 p.m. Tuesday-Friday. 736 Bellefonte St., Shadyside; www.pangea-shadyside.com, 412-621-3152.

Tucked away next to the basement-level dining room, Pangea's bar is surprisingly spacious while retaining a pleasantly cozy feel. A long wide bar offers comfortable seats, with a handful of bar tables and one for larger groups.

If you haven't been to this restaurant before or haven't been in a while, happy hour is a great way to get acquainted with the offerings. Enjoy half-off bottled beer, $5 featured martinis, $5 glasses of house wine and half off all appetizers.

Some appetizers were more like miniature entrees than typical starters. Grilled walu was served with rice pilaf (a touch salty) and a sweet peach salsa that nicely cut through the richness of this buttery white fish ($6).

A small portion of gnocchi came in a brothy, savory sauce, with strands of tender braised short ribs, bright green peas and chunks of fresh tomato ($4.50).

The shrimp and grits was a standout dish, the small pool of grits surrounded by a trio of perfectly cooked, impressively sweet large shrimp. The grits were also a touch salty, but a sweet balsamic syrup nicely balanced them out ($5.50).

Go ahead and splurge on a regular-priced summer salad, a garden basket of mixed greens with halved grape tomatoes, a peach and zucchini slaw, pickled yellow beets, and a plum and ginger vinaigrette. The combination of vegetables and fruits created just the right balance of sour and sweet ($8).

As for the drinks, I tried one of the nicer sounding cocktails, the Cuca-2, a mix of Hendrick's gin, Ketel One vodka, lime, simple syrup, ginger ale and cucumber. Unfortunately, it was made with Rose's lime rather than fresh lime juice, and the result was a bit too sweet ($10). A refreshing (and generous) glass of pinot grigio, the house white, was a better deal ($5).

Cioppino

5-7 p.m. Monday-Friday. 2350 Railroad St., Strip District; www.cioppinoofpittsburgh.com, 412-281-6593.

Cioppino's bar has been redone since the restaurant opened, high booths replaced with a central ring of wing-backed easy chairs and a handful of tall bar tables. The result is open and welcoming, suitable for drinks for one or two, or for a crowd.

Although Cioppino doesn't discount food during happy hour, its bar menu is full of reasonably priced options. A bowl of plump sweet mussels in a green curry broth, topped with a handful of french fries ($6) paired well with a crisp glass of Kim Crawford sauvignon blanc ($5).

Elysian Fields farm lamb minis were actually bigger than expected, more small hamburger than slider. Three moist burgers were complemented by caramelized onions and just a little bit of blue cheese spread, which melted into the meat ($11).

A high-end play on the Pittsburgh salad was substantial and delicious ($11). A mix of arugula, frisee and baby romaine lettuces was robust enough to stand up to the creamy goat cheese dressing. Sliced hanger steak, olive oil poached tomatoes and a handful of crispy french fries finished it off.

Don't forget to take a peek at a dinner menu, too -- every restaurant has its deals and they can usually be found among the appetizers. Bright green, super sweet, chilled pea soup was garnished with bacon "bits," mini croutons and crisp sugar snap pea pods full of peas ($6).

Eleven Contemporary Kitchen

4-6 p.m. Monday-Friday. 1150 Smallman St., Strip District; bigburrito.com/eleven, 412-201-5656.

Settle into your seat, pretend you're on "Mad Men" and order a martini -- just don't tell Don Draper if you order it with vodka. Eleven will make your martini of choice from one of five vodkas and five gins, all only $6. Seven wines by the glass and a half dozen oysters will each run you the same.

For something a little more substantial to go along with that stiff drink, peruse the tavern menu, which is full of playful snacks such as edamame with white truffle oil, Maldon sea salt and togarashi seasoning ($4), house-made soft pretzels with chedder cheese-beer sauce ($8), and a California-inflected BLT with house-cured bacon, heirloom tomatoes and avocado on sourdough ($8).

More great happy-hour options

Nine on Nine: 5-7 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. 900 Penn Ave., Downtown; www.nineonnine.com, 412-338-6463. Enjoy $6 glasses of featured wine, $6 featured cocktails, $3 domestic beer and half-off bar food in Nine on Nine's elegant bar. Don't miss the chicken liver pate ($5) or the wild mushroom risotto ($7).

Six Penn Kitchen: 5-7 p.m. Monday through Friday. 146 Sixth St., Downtown; www.sixpennkitchen.com, 412-566-7366. Six Penn offers $3 beers, $4 well drinks and $5 glasses of house wine. On nice days, head out early to grab a spot under a cabana on the gorgeous rooftop deck partly taken up by the restaurant's kitchen garden.

Spoon: 134 S. Highland Ave., East Liberty; www.spoonpgh.com, 412-362-6001. Happy hour is a great way to check out a new restaurant without committing to a full meal, and Spoon's delicious-sounding deals make it an even more attractive option. On Sunday, curb your hangover all day with Bronx Cocktails and Bloody Marys for $5. On Monday, the all-day happy hour continues with $2 off all drafts. Daily specials run 5-7 p.m. Tuesdays through Fridays. On Tuesdays enjoy seasonal farm-to-cocktail margaritas for $5; Wednesday, Micheladas are $4; Thursday has $5 sangria; and Friday is wine and cheese night, $2 off all wines by the glass and $2 off artisanal cheese plates.

Firehouse Lounge: 2216 Penn Ave., Strip District; www.firehouse-lounge.com, 412-434-1230. Can't leave work at 5? No need to miss out, just head over to the Firehouse Lounge, where it's happy hour 6-8 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Enjoy half-off food every day. On Mexican Mondays, margaritas are $5, Coronas $2.50. Tiki drinks are $6 on Tuesday; on Wednesday get $2 off whiskey drinks. On Thursday all bottles of wine are half off, and Fridays choose from $5 margaritas, mojitos and sangria. Saturday drink deals are dealer's choice.

China Millman: 412-263-1198 or cmillman@post-gazette.com. Follow her at http://twitter.com/chinamillman.

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First published on August 12, 2010 at 12:00 am