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Chairman's Selections: good wines, great prices
Thursday, August 12, 2010

The Chairman's Selection program of discounted wines sold in our state liquor stores is now 10 years old and, in the past two years, under the direction of Steve Pollack, has become a major contributor to the profits of the state-run business. When former Chairman Jonathan Newman conceived the program in 2000, he purchased in the neighborhood of 75,000 cases. This year's purchases already number 185,000 cases. Imagine, that's 2.22 million bottles of heavily discounted wine! The most recent purchase of 110,000 cases was of 129 different items, so the choices that will be available now through the end of the year are vast. There seems to be more European wine this fall than in previous years.

Until now, the Chairman's Selection has only been available in wine specialty stores but Harrisburg has decided now to have some Chairman's products sold in non-specialty stores as well.

After tasting 30 of the wines that will be arriving in local stores this week, I am listing my favorites. As always, it is advisable to purchase those that interest you as soon as possible. To make your shopping simpler, Mark Wilkins, the genius behind PaWineTalk.com, has designed a map on his website that will show you which stores have these wines in stock. Just go to pawinetalk.com/map/wine.php and look in the lower right corner for a list of these wines and check the box for Pittsburgh region.

The original prices are in parentheses.

Tariquet Amplitude 2009, Cotes de Gascogne, France

No. 12839, $9.99 ($15)

This white is a blend of equal parts sauvignon blanc, semillon, ugni blanc and colombard. The last two grapes are used to make Armagnac, which is the principal product of this region, but are not common blending grapes in table wines. This is a bottle of light, dry and refreshing wine that impresses with its perky citrus aromas with floral highlights. The finish is long and pleasant. Nice with shellfish and white-fleshed fish and the perfect summertime quaff.

Vina Sanzo Rueda Verdejo, 2009, Spain

No. 30920, $9.99 ($18) Biodynamic

The verdejo grape is Spain's premium white variety. It produces aromatic wines with an herbal-floral character. This bottle was made from 40-year-old vines, which explains the rich mouth-feel and the long finish. Drink as an aperitif or to accompany seafood or poultry or fried foods.

Chateau Bastor Lamontagne, 2009, Bordeaux, France

No. 30936, $13.99 ($30)

If this name sounds familiar, it is probably because the same chateau had a sauternes in the Chairman's program last year. Located in the village of Sauternes, the property also makes small quantities of dry wine, in this case entirely from sauvignon blanc grapes. Unlike most sauvignon blanc, this one has been partially fermented in oak adding richness and complexity to the wine. Totally dry, but lush and elegant, it will pair well with all seafoods and white meats.

Joseph Drouhin St. Veran, 2008, Maconnais, France

No. 30926, $11.99 ($18)

This unoaked French chardonnay comes from the region that lies between the Cote d'Or and Beaujolais. The aromas are a mixture of citrus and minerals reminiscent of Chablis, another unoaked chardonnay, which is considerably more costly. Serve with summer vegetables, seafood and white meats. This wine is a charmer.

Dr. Fischer Ockfener Bockstein Riesling, 2009, Saar, Germany

No. 30930, $14.99 ($24)

If you haven't yet experienced the joys of a good German riesling, now is the time. Riesling is the queen of white grapes and Germany is her traditional home terroir. Bockstein is a famous single vineyard on the steep banks of the Saar River and is famous for the blue slate soil that produces legendary rieslings. Only 8.5 percent alcohol, this is a soft and elegant wine with aromas of green apples and Asian pears and of course a touch of the famous slate. Fermentation was halted to retain some natural sweetness. It is great with Asian or Indian cuisine and in fact pairs well with almost anything. Appealing in its youth, it will age and improve for at least 10 more years.

Mumm Napa Pinot Noir, 2008, Napa Valley, California

No. 30916, $9.99 ($32)

This pinot is from Mumm's Napa Valley sparkling wine operation. Very light in body with aromas of red fruits, it is uncomplicated and pleasant and, at one-third the original price, is an affordable opportunity to try a Napa-style pinot noir. Serve with poultry, white meats or seafood.

Lacrimus Rioja Crianza, 2006, Rioja, Spain

No. 30922, $12.99 ($24)

The Rioja region produces impressive tempranillo-based red blends. This one is blended with 15 percent graciano grapes. All Rioja crianzas are required by law to age 14 months in oak barrels and an additional 12 months in bottle before leaving the winery. With great structure and balance between black fruits and acidity, it has a soft texture in the mouth with well-integrated tannins. Serve with red or white meats, poultry or pasta.

Chateau Maris La Togue Syrah 2006, Minervois, France

No. 30928, $14.99 ($27) Biodynamic and unfiltered

La Togue is a single vineyard that produced this powerful wine with aromatic layers of black fruits, herbs and spices similar to Rhone Valley syrahs. Drink it with almost any dish from charcuterie or stews to firm cheese. The Minervois region is in Languedoc Rousillion, Southwest France.

Two Hands Lily's Garden Shiraz, 2007, McLaren Vale, Australia

No. 27445, $28.99 ($60)

My tasting notes for this wine read: "over the top fruit, ripe and complex, chewy texture, black fruits, mocha, cloves, white pepper ... big and beautiful with velvety tannins that will benefit from a few years in the cellar." With alcohol a whopping 15.7 percent, it was by far the most intense wine in the entire tasting. Two Hands makes some of Australia's most respected and priciest wines. This bottle is less than half its original price. To drink now it is essential to decant several hours before serving.

Terlato Angel's Peak Bordeaux Blend, 2004, Napa Valley, California

No. 30898, $19.99 ($48)

This California wine is meant to be a tribute to the merlot-dominant grand crus of Pomerol and St. Emillion (such as Chateau Petrus and Chateau Cheval Blanc). Aged for 22 months in French oak, it is deep garnet in color with aromas of cassis, boysenberry, tobacco, toast and coffee. It has a velvet quality in the mouth and spicy oakiness in the long finish. You would not mistake it for either of its role models but it would be hard to improve on for a bottle under $20.

Geyser Peak Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006, Alexander Valley, California

No. 30917, $17.99 ($47)

This blend of grapes from small vineyard lots was vinified separately and aged for 21 months in American oak. With alcohol content at 14.5 percent, it is a bold red, packed with layers of complexity. Dominant aromas are of black currants, plums, chocolate, toast and coffee. Well balanced with soft tannins, it has a long, impressive finish. It should continue to develop for another 10 years if one could resist consuming sooner. If drinking now it should be decanted several hours before serving. Best with red meats and sharp cheeses.

St. Francis Wild Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Sonoma, California

No. 12835, $14.99 ($38)

Wild Oak is the name St. Francis gives their reserve wines. The grapes, 79 percent cabernet sauvignon, 10 percent merlot, 6 percent petit verdot and 5 percent malbec, are from the best blocks of mature, hilltop vineyards. American labeling laws require that the bottle contain 75 percent of the grape listed on the label. Not all labels list the quantities of other grapes. This wine spent 24 months in French oak. The result is a luscious, intense red packed with black fruit aromas followed by tobacco and leather. Can easily be cellared for five years or more. Drink with game or red meats. This is a sensational value.

Murrieta's Well Meritage, 2007, California (No. 12874) is coming back into the stores. I wrote about this wine after the last Chairman's tasting and it quickly sold out. The program has bought the remaining stocks from the winery and it will be $10.99.

Elizabeth Downer: edowner@post-gazette.com.

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First published on August 12, 2010 at 12:00 am
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