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Plush: Glorious libations
Some newcomers have raised the bar on the area's cocktail scene
Wednesday, November 18, 2009

With the holiday season upon us, calendars are sure to be filling up with shopping trips, parties and the usual chores. It can feel impossible to steal a few hours for a date or a get-together with close friends.

The perfect antidote to these over-scheduled times? The cocktail bar.

Settle in for a few minutes or a few hours, whenever you're free. The cocktail scene is livelier than ever, and the best newcomers (and some old favorites) are not only raising the bar when it comes to libations, but also are focusing on food, so you can stop in for a snack or a meal along with your drink of choice.

Whether you're working, shopping, taking in a show or simply home for the night, Downtown visitors and residents should check out Braddock's Street Side Grill, the new Whiskey Rebellion-inspired cocktail bar at the Renaissance Hotel. Sage Restaurant Group, which owns the hotel and its new dining establishments, hired Freddie Sarkis, who's locally known for his work at Embury in the Strip District.

Mr. Sarkis has created a concise and creative list for Braddock's, including classic cocktails such as La Floridita Daiquiri ($11) as well as "rebellion cocktails" such as Jefferson's Thirst ($10) with Old Overholdt rye, basil, grapefruit, lemon and egg white. Mr. Sarkis created cocktails from all kinds of base liquors, but the bar places a special emphasis on whiskey, offering about 50 varieties. The bar menu is casual but sophisticated with small plates such as pork rillette with grilled toast and mustard pickles ($7), charcuterie and cheese plates ($12, $24), four kinds of mussels and frites ($17), and a variety of soups, salads and sandwiches.

Looking for a more casual setting? Look no further than the new Lawrenceville hot spot, the Round Corner Cantina. New owners Derek Burnell and his wife, Jesse Zmuda Burnell, kept the inclusive attitude of Sufak's Round Corner Bar and added stylish design elements such as a tin ceiling and chandelier. While there are plenty of margaritas (including dueling husband-and-wife versions), and a nice selection of tequilas, the list extends to classic cocktails such as the Pimm's Cup, and lots of other creative concoctions.

If you like a little heat, check out the Red Pepper, a beguiling mix of tequila, chartreuse, elderflower liqueur, basil and lemon juice served with a whole dried red chile. The more you stir, the hotter the drink gets.

Now that they've started serving Latin American street food the buzz has gotten even louder. Assemble a snack or a meal from their lengthy list of small plates. There are plenty of tacos (two for $5-$7), including carnitas, seitan and fish, but there are also crispy chicharrones (twice fried pork skin), short rib empanadas (two for $8), patatas gratinadas (sweet potatoes with cheese, $7) and a lot more.

We all want to check out the cool new kids in town, but don't overlook old favorites, especially those that keep things fresh. Soba in Shadyside has been a mainstay of Pittsburgh's cocktail scene since it opened, and these days its bartenders are having more fun than ever. General Manager Ryan Burke and beverage manager Joanne Richardson have been busy creating new purees, infusions and flavor combinations, resulting in fresh drinks such as the mugi-oh martini ($11) made from Iichiko Shochu (a Japanese barley-based spirit), cucumber puree, lemon juice and simple syrup. For something on the sweeter side, try the Thai orange soda ($10), a mix of Thai basil-infused Absolut vodka, blood orange juice and a splash of blood orange soda.

The kitchen staff, led by recently appointed executive chef Danielle Cain, has been having some fun as well. Stop by for happy hour and you'll leave happier than ever. Drinks now typically come with a little snack, such as a bowl of pickled vegetables or spicy Thai popcorn. Check out new snacks on the bar menu, such as steamed buns stuffed with shiitake mushrooms ($8) or crispy pork belly ($9).

China Millman can be reached at 412-263-1198 or cmillman@post-gazette.com. Follow her on Twitter at http://twitter.com/chinamillman.
First published on November 18, 2009 at 12:00 am