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Spiced up: Replenish your seasoning collection and toss those beyond their prime
Thursday, September 25, 2008

I'd been avoiding it for years. Finally, this summer I did it: I cleaned out my spice cupboard.

What a shock. I removed at least 50 spices and 35 of them had expired. I found a jar of rosemary leaves that expired in 1990!

McCormick spices now have "best by" dates, but they didn't when I bought my Rotisserie Chicken Seasoning. I found a number code and was able to check it out on the McCormick Web site, mccormick.com, which has an easy-to-use Date Code Decoder. My seasoning was packaged on May 1, 2003 -- another spice to toss.

To check the date of your spice, click on All About Spices, then on Keeping Your Spices Fresh. Type in the code number and where the spice was manufactured (on the label under ingredients) and within seconds you'll know if your spice is too old.

If your McCormick spice or herb is in a metal can, you don't even have to go to the trouble -- it is at least 15 years old and should be ditched.

Florida food writer Janet K. Keeler of the St. Petersburg Times offered up this tip a few years ago: Catalog spices and the date you purchased them and tape the list to the inside of your spice cabinet. This can keep you from buying a spice you already have and also helps you cull aging spices.

Spice substitutes
There's always a chance you'll need a particular spice but won't have the time to run to the grocery store.
Here is a list of substitutions from The Spice Hunter (spicehunter.com).
  • Cardamom -- ginger
  • Cinnamon -- nutmeg
  • Cloves -- cinnamon or nutmeg
  • Cumin -- chili powder
  • Mace -- allspice, cinnamon, ginger or nutmeg
  • Marjoram -- oregano
  • Paprika -- cayenne pepper
  • Parsley -- cilantro
  • Rosemary -- sage or thyme
  • Tarragon -- dill or basil
Working together
Some recommended pairings, courtesy of McCormick:
  • Oregano and heirloom beans
  • Vanilla bean and cardamom
  • Chile and cocoa
  • Coriander and coconut water
  • Lemon grass and lychee
  • Red curry and masa
  • Orange peel and natural wood
  • Allspice and exotic meats
  • Poppy seed and rose
  • Rubbed sage and rye whiskey

Another of her tips: Freshen up your spice rack now, before the holidays, when you'll want pumpkin pie spice and other spices and herbs in quantity and in the freshest condition.

How long do spices and herbs last? According to McCormick:

• Ground spices -- 2 to 3 years

• Whole spices -- 3 to 4 years (so buying them whole means you can grind them as needed)

• Seasoning blends (a mixture of herbs and spices) -- 1 to 2 years

• Herbs -- 1 to 3 years

• Extracts -- 4 years, except for pure vanilla extract, which lasts indefinitely.

Trendy right now are seasoning- and spice-filled grinders. McCormick just came out with a cinnamon grinder and cinnamon sugar grinder. It also offers black pepper and sea salt grinders.

The Spice Depot also just launched a line of a dozen grinder spice blends such as Spicy Sea Salt, Hot & Spicy and JoJo potato. Those are widely available at Wal-Mart stores and online at thespicedepot.com, where the line is described as offering "always fresh-ground flavor each and every time. Each twist of the spice bottle top's built-in grinder releases essential oils and aromatic flavors and essences locked deep within the fresh-dried spice pieces."

What is the difference between spices and herbs? Both come from aromatic plants. Herbs come from the leaves, stems and flowers; spices from the bark, stems, roots, seeds, buds and berries. Herbs are sold fresh and dried -- whole, ground or powdered. Spices are sold dried -- whole, ground or powdered.

Herbs and spices get their aromas and flavors from oils and oleo resins. As the oils evaporate, the flavor and aroma dissipates. Rub or crush an herb or spice in your hand. If the aroma is dull, throw it away. Herbs and spices should have a vivid color. If the color has faded that's a sign that the flavor has faded and it's time to get rid of it.

Storing spices properly is just as important as checking expiration dates. Store them in airtight containers (with minimal air space) in a cool, dark place. Keep them away from heat, direct sunlight and moisture. Don't store them near the stove, dishwasher, sink or near a window, or in the fridge.

One trick to keeping your spices fresh is to buy them in small quantities. "I always ask our customers if they think they'll use all of the spice within a year," said Kathy Meister, who works at Penzeys Spices in the Strip District, which sells spices from the common to the exotic. "Most of the time they say no, so I suggest they buy one of our smaller containers."

Penzeys spices are available in glass or plastic jars and bags in sizes from 4 ounces to 1 pound.

About spice blends
Many cuisines rely on blends of herbs and spices, such as:
Chili powder: Used in Mexican cooking, it's a blend of dried chilies, cloves, coriander, cumin, garlic and oregano.
Curry powder: Authentic Indian curry powder is freshly ground every day and varies according to the cook and region. It is a blend of 20 or so spices and herbs, such as fennel seed, mace, nutmeg, cumin, and red and black pepper. There are various commercial curry powders from mild to hot (madras).
Garam masala: Garam is the Indian word for warm or hot. This blend of roasted and ground spices may contain up to 12 spices including black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin, cardamom and dried chiles.
Herbes de Provence: A blend from Southern France typically containing thyme, savory, rosemary, marjoram, sage, bay leaves and lavender. Adds flavor to grilled meats and fish and stews.
Jerk seasoning: A Caribbean mixture of allspice, ginger, cinnamon, thyme and garlic, although ingredients can vary. Used mostly in preparing grilled meat, seafood and poultry.

-- Arlene Burnett

At Penzeys, as at other stores, you can usually get a better price per ounce for larger quantities, but the savings is no good if you wind up throwing the spices away or, worse, using spices that are faded or rancid.

If you like to experiment with different spices in small quantities, check out Watkins' new pre-measured spice packets. Each packet holds one teaspoon of spice. Cumin, nutmeg, basil, paprika and dry mustard are available, but the company plans to introduce more choices later this year.

"We're trying to fill a void by coming up with a way consumers can buy spices in an economical and efficient way," said Jason Schumann of Watkins. Watkins spice packets are available at Walmart.com.

No need to throw away good money wasting fresh herbs, either. According to the "Spice and Herb Bible" by Ian Hemphill (Robert Rose, second edition, 2006), basil, chervil, coriander, dill, parsley and tarragon (soft-leaf herbs) may be kept for up to a week in a glass of water in the refrigerator.

Wash herbs in clean, cold water. Immerse the bottom inch of the stems in water; cover the foliage with a clean plastic bag. Herbs with tougher stems, such as thyme, sage, marjoram and rosemary, may be kept for up to a week in a glass of water at room temperature, exposed to the air. The water should be changed every day.

Once you're sure that your spice rack isn't outdated, you can update it by adding a new herb or spice or three.

We just heard about merken, a copper-colored, smoky Chilean spice now available in the United States (at Whole Foods Markets and Williams-Sonoma stores).

The producer, Chileangourmet, says that merken has been Chile's most popular spice for centuries and describes it as "a blend of dried and smoked red chilis (aji cacho de cabra, or goat's horn), toasted coriander seeds, cumin and salt.

McCormick is always marketing new twists. Recently, it came out with a cocoa chile (chipotles) blend, diced jalapenos, as well as lavender.

Today the buzz word is organic. McCormick and The Spice Hunter offer a line of certified organic spices and herbs that are available locally at the large Giant Eagle stores.

Another trendy topic is "super foods," foods rich in antioxidants, and spices are among those. Recently, McCormick identified seven antioxidant-rich "super spices" that researchers believe have the greatest potential to improve health: cinnamon, ginger, oregano, red pepper (including cayenne, crushed red pepper and paprika), rosemary, thyme and turmeric.

While highly seasoned ethnic foods have grown in popularity, Margie Gibbons, a spokeswoman for Penzeys, says: "Spices are not as trendy as one would think. In general you will find the same spices and herbs in most households as you did 10 years ago. In some parts of the country certain new spices might pop up, but most people still buy the staples such as garlic, vanilla, bay leaves, etc."


GROUND BEEF COCOA CHILI

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  • 1 pound ground beef
  • 1 cup chopped onions
  • 2 tablespoons McCormick Gourmet cocoa chile blend
  • 1 teaspoon garlic powder
  • 1 teaspoon Mexican oregano leaves
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 15-ounce can black beans, drained and rinsed
  • 14 1/2-ounce can diced tomatoes, undrained
  • 8-ounce can tomato sauce

Cook and stir ground beef and onion in large skillet on medium-high heat 5 minutes. Drain fat.

Stir in spices and remaining ingredients. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to low; cover and simmer 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Serve with shredded cheese, sour cream, chopped onion and corn chips, if desired.

Makes 5 1-cup servings.

-- McCormick


MUSHROOMS STUFFED WITH MOZZARELLA AND FRESH HERBS

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  • 1 pound medium cremini or white mushrooms
  • 4 ounces mozzarella cheese
  • 3 to 4 tablespoons parmesan
  • 1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed
  • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
  • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons fine bread crumbs
  • Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a rack and place it on top of a baking pan. Clean mushrooms, separating caps from the stems. Set aside caps.
  • Place stems in the bowl of a food processor with a steel blade, along with mozzarella, parmesan, garlic, basil, and parsley. Pulse until finely chopped but not pureed. Add salt and pepper to taste.
  • Gently fill mushroom caps to the top with filling. Place mushrooms on rack in the baking pan. Drizzle olive oil over mushrooms, sprinkle tops with bread crumbs.
  • Bake for about 30 minutes. If they haven't formed a crust, put mushrooms under the broiler for a few minutes.
  • Makes 24.
  • -- "The New American Cooking" by Joan Nathan (Random House, 2005)


VANILLA CARDAMOM WHOOPIE PIES

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For the cookies

  • 2 cups flour
  • 1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
  • 1 cup buttermilk
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, softened
  • 1 1/2 cups firmly packed brown sugar
  • 1 egg

For the filling

  • 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, softened
  • 1 1/2 cups confectioners' sugar
  • 1 1/2 cups marshmallow cream
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
  • 1/3 cup finely chopped salted shelled pistachios

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a medium bowl mix flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, salt and cardamom, set aside. Mix buttermilk and vanilla in a small bowl.

Beat butter and brown sugar with electric mixer on medium-high speed until light and fluffy. Add egg, mix well. Add flour mixture alternately with buttermilk mixture, beating on low speed after each addition until smooth and scraping down sides of bowl occasionally.

Spoon 1 tablespoon of batter, 2 inches apart, on to parchment paper-lined baking sheets. Avoid crowding cookies on the cookie sheet because they will spread. Bake 8 minutes or until cookies are puffed and spring back when touched, turning baking sheet halfway through baking. Cool on baking sheets 1 minute. Remove to wire racks; cool completely.

While the cookies are cooling beat all filling ingredients except pistachios with electric mixer on medium speed until light and fluffy.

Place 1 tablespoon of filling on flat side of 1 cookie. Top with second cookie, pressing gently to spread filling. Roll or sprinkle side of whoopie pie with pistachios. Store between layers of wax paper in airtight container in refrigerator for 3 to 5 days.

Makes 24 whoopie pies.

-- McCormick


LAVENDER POUND CAKE

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  • 1 1/2 cups sugar
  • 2 to 3 teaspoons dried lavender
  • 2 to 3 teaspoons
  • 2 1/2 cups flour
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened
  • 4 eggs
  • 1 tablespoon McCormick Pure Vanilla Extract
  • 3/4 cup milk

Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Generously grease and flour 12-cup Bundt pan. Mix sugar and lavender in small bowl. Mix flour, baking powder and salt in medium bowl; set aside.

Beat butter in large bowl with electric mixer on medium speed 30 seconds or until softened. Add sugar mixture; beat until light and fluffy, scraping down sides occasionally. Beat in eggs and vanilla. Add flour mixture alternately with milk, beating on low speed after each addition until smooth. Pour batter into prepared pan.

Bake 40 to 45 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool in pan 10 minutes. Remove from pan; cool completely on wire rack. Drizzle cake with Vanilla Butter Glaze or sprinkle with confectioner's sugar.

Makes 16 servings.


VANILLA BUTTER GLAZE

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  • 3 tablespoons butter, melted
  • 2 1/2 cups confectioners' sugar
  • 3 tablespoons water
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons

Mix butter, confectioners' sugar, water and vanilla until smooth. Let stand 3 minutes or until thickened.

Makes 1 1/4 cups or 10 (2-tablespoon) servings.


QUICK CORN CHOWDER
  • 2 packages (10 ounces each) frozen corn kernels, thawed
  • 2 cups frozen diced potatoes
  • 1 cup chopped onion
  • 1 small red bell pepper, diced
  • 2 cups milk
  • 2 cups chicken broth
  • 3/4 pound smoked ham, diced
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons Old Bay Seasoning
  • Pinch crushed red pepper

Stir together corn, potatoes, onions and bell pepper in large saucepan. Add milk and broth and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add ham, Old Bay and crushed red pepper.

Simmer 15 minutes or until flavors are well blended and vegetables are soft.

Serve hot.

Makes 4 servings.


WARM SPICED CHICKEN SALAD WITH SCALLION DRESSING

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  • 6 cups romaine lettuce, washed, dried and torn into bite-sized pieces
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced radishes
  • 1/2 cup chopped green pepper
  • 1/2 cup chopped cucumber
  • 1/2 cup chopped celery
  • 1/2 cup cherry or grape tomatoes
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1 teaspoon ground coriander seed
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1 pound boneless and skinless chicken breasts
  • 2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil

For the scallion dressing

  • 5 to 6 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
  • 4 teaspoons sesame oil
  • 6 tablespoons peanut oil or vegetable oil
  • 1/3 cup thinly sliced scallions, including green tops
  • 1/2 cup grated cheddar cheese
  • 1/2 pound prepared french fries

Spread the lettuce on a large platter. Scatter the radishes, green pepper, cucumber, celery and tomatoes over the lettuce. Set aside. (This can be prepared ahead and refrigerated until ready to serve.)

To make chicken, combine cumin, coriander, and salt and pepper in a small bowl. Place chicken breasts between two sheets of plastic wrap and pound to flatten slightly. Sprinkle chicken with the spice mixture and rub it in on both sides to coat the chicken.

Heat oil in a large skillet. Cook the chicken breasts over medium heat about 6 to 7 minutes on each side, until browned. Remove the chicken to a cutting board. Set aside the skillet but do not discard the drippings.

To make the dressing, add the vinegar, sesame oil, peanut or vegetable oil and scallions to the drippings in the skillet. Cook and stir over medium heat for 1 minute.

Slice the chicken into strips about 1/2-inch thick and lay the strips on top of the salad. Finish with french fries and cheddar cheese if desired. Pour the warm dressing over the salad and serve, or pour dressing on individual salads.

Yields 4 serving.

-- "Quick & Delicious Weekday Meals" by Brooke Dojny and Melanie Bernard (Prentice Hall, 1980).




MCCORMICK SPICES CHILI CUMIN PORK RUB

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The company, naturally, suggests using McCormick brand spices.

  • 1 tablespoon chili powder
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons garlic powder
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons Mexican oregano leaves
  • 1 teaspoon McCormick Season-All seasoned salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon coarse-ground black pepper
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground Saigon cinnamon
  • 2 pork tenderloins (about 1 pound each)

Mix seasonings in a small bowl. Rub seasoning mixture over pork.

Refrigerate 30 minutes or longer for extra flavor.

Grill over medium heat for 20 minutes or until desired doneness, turning pork occasionally. Let stand 5 minutes before slicing.

Oven method: Roast pork in preheated 450-degree oven for 20 to 25 minutes or until done as desired.

Makes 8 servings.

-- McCormick


CITRUS SALMON WITH ORANGE RELISH

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For the salmon

  • 1/4 cup orange juice
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 1/2 teaspoon thyme leaves, divided
  • 4 salmon fillets (about 1 pound)
  • 1 tablespoon brown sugar
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

For the relish

  • 1/2 teaspoon grated orange peel
  • 2 oranges, peeled, sectioned and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  • 2 tablespoons chopped red bell pepper
  • 1 tablespoon honey
  • 1 tablespoon chopped red onion
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Mix orange juice, oil and 1 teaspoon of the thyme in small bowl. Place salmon in large resealable plastic bag or glass dish. Add marinade; turn to coat well. Refrigerate 30 minutes or longer.

Mix all relish ingredients in medium bowl. Cover. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Mix brown sugar, paprika, remaining 1/2 teaspoon thyme and salt in small bowl. Remove salmon from marinade (discard any remaining marinade).

Rub salmon evenly with paprika mixture. Place salmon on foil-lined baking pan. Bake 10 to 15 minutes or until fish flakes easily with a fork.

Or grill salmon over medium-high heat 6 to 8 minutes per side or until fish flakes easily with a fork.

Serve salmon with orange relish.

Makes 4 servings.

-- McCormick


RICE WITH FRESH HERBS

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  • Scant 2 cups basmati rice, soaked in salted water for 2 hours
  • 2 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill
  • 3 to 4 scallions, finely chopped
  • 4 tablespoons butter
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 2 to 3 saffron strands, soaked in 1 tablespoon boiling water

Drain rice and boil in salted water for 5 minutes; reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes.

Stir in the herbs and scallions. Mix well with a fork. Simmer for a few minutes more; drain but do not rinse. Wash and dry the pan.

Heat half the butter in the pan. Add 1 tablespoon water; stir in rice. Cook over very low heat for 10 minutes, then test to see if it is half cooked.

Add the remaining butter, the cinnamon and saffron water and cover the pan with a clean dish towel. Secure with a tightly fitting lid, and steam over a very low heat for 30 to 40 minutes.

Serves 4.

--"The Around the World Cookbook" (Hermes House, 2003).


JAMBALAYA WITH SAUSAGE AND SHRIMP

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For the stock

  • 1 pound shrimp, peeled, with shells reserved
  • 1 cup clam juice
  • 2 cups canned chicken broth
  • 1 cup water
  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

For the seasoning mix for sausage

  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1 tablespoon paprika
  • 1 tablespoon minced garlic
  • 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
  • Cayenne pepper to taste
  • 3 teaspoons cinnamon

For the Jambalaya seasoning mix

  • 3 bay leaves
  • Cayenne pepper to taste
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 1 tablespoon fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried
  • 1 teaspoon dried thyme
  • 1 teaspoon dried basil
  • 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 pound sweet or spicy Italian sausage or turkey kielbasa, cut in bite-size pieces
  • 3 medium onions, chopped (about 3 cups)
  • 6 cloves garlic, chopped (about 2 tablespoons)
  • 1 green bell pepper, chopped
  • 1 red bell pepper, chopped
  • 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
  • 2 cups uncooked long-grain rice
  • 2 teaspoons salt or to taste
  • 1 cup tomato sauce
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Rinse shrimp shells. Place shells, clam juice, chicken broth and water in a large pot. Simmer over low heat, partially covered, for about 1 hour. Strain stock (you should have about 2 cups of stock). Add enough water to make 2 1/2 cups. Return stock to pot.

While the shrimp stock is simmering, mix the ingredients for the sausage seasoning mix.

Heat a tablespoon of the olive oil in a frying pan; add the sausage pieces, sprinkling them with seasoning mix. Brown until almost blackened and the sausage is cooked through. Set aside.

Mix jambalaya seasoning; set aside. Pour the remaining olive oil into a large frying pan. Over medium heat saute the onions, garlic and green and red peppers with half the jambalaya spice mixture. Continue until the onions are translucent, add chopped tomatoes, rice and salt; saute for another 3 minutes.

Stir in tomato sauce, stock, the remainder of seasoning mix and sausage. Bring to a boil, cover and turn the heat to very low. Cook about 20 minutes or until the rice is done but still moist. Remove the cover, stir in peeled shrimp and cook until shrimp turns pink. Discard bay leaves and serve.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

-- "The New American Cooking" by Joan Nathan (Random House, 2005).


COMPOUND BUTTER

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I've been using compound or herbed butters for years. They're attractive, and they add a finishing touch, depending on the herbs you use, to soups, sauces and grilled or roasted meats, seafood or poultry. And they're delicious on freshly baked bread. Herbed butters can be frozen tightly wrapped up to two months.

-- Arlene Burnett

  • 1/2 cup softened butter
  • Seasonings (see below)

Place butter in a bowl; mix until smooth. Add ingredients from one of the recipes below and mix thoroughly. Place butter in the refrigerator for about 5 minutes. Place the butter on a sheet of waxed paper and roll into a log. Cover and refrigerate.

Set the butter out about 15 minutes before using.

HERB BUTTER

Mix butter with 4 tablespoons herbs -- chives, oregano, parsley, thyme or tarragon.

-- "Cooking A to Z: Cole's Complete Culinary Reference: Recipes and Techniques" (Cole Group, 1997)

MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER
  • 6 tablespoons parsley, washed, dried and finely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • Salt
  • Freshly ground white pepper

Mix ingredients with butter.

-- "Cooking A to Z: Cole's Complete Culinary Reference: Recipes and Techniques" (Cole Group, 1997)

GINGER CILANTRO BUTTER
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
  • 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
  • 1/2 teaspoon grated, peeled fresh ginger

Mix ingredients with butter.

-- "The Good Housekeeping Cookbook" (Hearst, 2007)

Arlene Burnett can be reached at aburnett@post-gazette.com or 412-263-1577.
First published on September 25, 2008 at 12:00 am
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