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Tastings: Book ferments the debate of beer vs. wine pairings
Thursday, July 03, 2008

Do you believe that women are from Venus and men from Mars? How about wine is from Venus and beer from Mars?

That is the premise of a new book, "He Said Beer, She Said Wine" (Dorling Kindersley, $25). It's written by Sam Calagione, founder and owner of Dogfish Head Brewery, and Marnie Old, director of wine studies at the French Culinary Institute in New York. Their Great Debate takes the Venus and Mars approach to pairing foods with the two beverages.

I can't vouch for the accuracy of Mr. Calagione's premise that it was the discovery of fermentation and turning ordinary barley into miraculous beer that changed early man from a hunter-gatherer to a settled farmer. It's true, however, that both of these alcoholic beverages have a history that dates back thousands of years. Water wasn't always safe to drink, so people turned to fermented beverages as a sanitary alternative. Because beer was a product of fermented grain, brewing was associated with bread-making and the role of brewer went to women. Perhaps that is why the Sumerians worshiped Ninkasi, the goddess of beer. The Greeks paid homage to a male, Dionysus, as god of wine.

Both authors agree that beer is a more populist beverage. In some cultures, wine was reserved for the priesthood and the nobility while beer was served to the rest of society. At the end of the day, wine and beer have more similarities than Venus and Mars.

The authors each make passionate arguments for the best beer or wine choices to pair with a particular food, from cheese to pizza to death-by-chocolate desserts. I personally will continue to opt for a dry chenin blanc with goat cheese, and Banyuls, a sweet red wine from Southwestern France, with my chocolate dessert, but I freely admit to being intrigued with the idea of pairing Penn Weizen with goat cheese and a dark stout with chocolate.

At the book's end, Ms. Old writes: "I was truly surprised to see how much common ground wine and beer share. Both are naturally fermented alcoholic beverages that retain the nutrition of their raw materials. Both harness the miraculous action of yeast to add layers of delightful flavor complexity. Both are capable of being terrific food partners, amplifying the pleasure we take in eating." I'll ditto that.

Here are a few Venus selections I scouted for the Fourth of July. They are on sale at reduced prices until July 27. The price shown in parentheses is the normal price. These wines are widely available throughout our region and not just in specialty stores. Any of them will enhance your pleasure as you watch the fireworks join Venus and Mars in painting the July 4 skies.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Sauvignon Blanc, PLCB #4581, $8.99 ($10.99). This wine, selected by the Wine Spectator as a "Best Buy" at $10, would be perfect with crab dip, fish sandwich or grilled salmon.

Snoqualmie Winemaker's Select Riesling, PLCB #7242, $8.99 ($9.99). A perennial favorite on all the "best buy" lists, try this with salty cheeses, spicy food, grilled pork or hot dogs.

Columbia Crest Grand Estate Pinot Grigio, PLCB #4893, $10.99 ($13.99). Nice with chips and dip or shellfish.

Dog Tail Vineyards California Fire Hydrant Red, PLCB #9467, $8.99 ($10.99). Could we say this is a Mars wine? It certainly has a name and a label that would be comfortable on a beer bottle! Big and rustic, it would be my choice for pasta and pizza.

Big House California Red, PLCB #8774, $9.99 ($11.99). Another rustic red with an amusing name and label, this wine pairs well with anything from the grill. Made from a blend of carignan, sangiovese and charbono grapes, the name refers to Soledad State Prison in Central California, the region where the grapes are grown.

Hahn Estate Shiraz 2005, PLCB #5332, $7.99 ($9.99). A San Luis Obispo shiraz that is big and spicy and a great choice to pair with grilled foods.

Regular readers of this column know that I am a big fan of boxed wines for large groups or outdoor events. If you are pouring for a crowd, you might want:

Black Box Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, PLCB #9935, $20.99 ($23.99). A 3-liter box equals four bottles. A solid, well made cab which goes with everything from sandwiches to filet mignon.

Elizabeth Downer can be reached at edowner@post-gazette.com or 412-263-1454.
First published on July 3, 2008 at 12:00 am
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