I once worked in the heart of the nation's fashion industry, on Manhattan's Seventh Avenue, before writing about it. And in the 50-plus years since, not much about the environment has changed.
What is disappearing, and is almost gone, is the celebrity designer. He or she was born, in my opinion, due to one woman, the late New York publicist Eleanor Lambert. Before Ms. Lambert, who stayed active but died soon after she turned 100 in 2003, there were always spring and fall showings of beautiful fashions in New York. But she took it to another level.
She made it like a Hollywood opening, the showing of a collection. She created stars in the garment district much the way Louis B. Mayer did in the cinema world. Before Ms. Lambert, we not only paid little or no attention to a label, we certainly didn't have an individual's name on our sheets, towels, sunglasses or stockings ... or box of chocolates. The manufacturer's name was usually the identity -- the designer was anonymous. Even Bill Blass was once the smaller name under manufacturer Maurice Rentner.
Ms. Lambert had quite an eye for talent. Many names she helped bring to fame -- Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Halston, Geoffrey Beene, Perry Ellis, Rudi Gernreich, Ralph Lauren, Blass -- still have buzz even though the designer may no longer be in the business, such as Calvin Klein, or has died, such as Halston, Ellis and Blass.
It's the new names we won't be as familiar with. They could be just as talented, but there is no longer the interest Ms. Lambert infused, and undoubtedly not as much available money for elaborate promotions.
Today, while the designer provides the showcase, he/she no longer is the subject of real interest, except to the store buyer who wants to sell some clothes.
It's a photo op for Lindsay or Beyonce or Mandy or Jennifer pictured in the front row during Fashion Week ... wanting to be seen.
Whose show is it anyhow? Before she died, Ms. Lambert became disenchanted with fashion and considered it "not worth looking at anymore."
She'd seen enough in 100 years. But during those years, she sold us on many bright stars.